California Birding
by Brian E. Small
Yosemite National Park and Mono Lake
The majestic Sierra-Nevada Mountains offer birders the most
beautiful scenery in California as well as some of it's most
exciting birding. From Yosemite Valley across Tioga Pass and
down the eastern slope of the Sierra-Nevada to Mono Lake, birders
can find a stunning variety of habitats as well as species.
Because of weather, road conditions and the variety of birds, you
will want to plan a trip to this part of California from late
spring through the early fall.
Yosemite National Park, with its' towering peaks, spectacular
water falls, vast meadows, unspoiled lakes and streams and
thousands of acres of forest, form a pristine wilderness that
holds nearly 250 species of birds. While you are visiting the
park, bird the conifer-rimmed Tuolumne Meadows and the meadows at
Crane Flat for Green-tailed Towhees, Calliope Hummingbirds,
Lincoln's Sparrows, Pine Grosbeaks, Evening Grosbeaks, Pine
Siskins, Cassin's Finches and Hermit Warblers. A good place to
look for Great Gray Owls at dawn or dusk is the meadow directly
behind the Chevron service station at Crane Flat. Be sure to
walk the trails around White Wolf and Bridalveil Creek
campgrounds for elusive Black-backed Woodpeckers and other
nesting birds. The famous groves of Giant Sequoias in the park
have the usual forest birds like Brown Creepers and Mountain
Chickadees, but may also shelter White-headed and Pileated
Woodpeckers. The areas surrounding Mirror Lake or along nearby
Tenaya Creek are excellent for Black Swifts, Winter Wrens,
American Dippers and MacGillivray's Warblers. At the lower
elevation riparian areas in Lee Vining Canyon along Highway 120,
you can search for nesting Western Wood-Pewees, Lazuli Buntings,
Warbling Vireos, Red-breasted Sapsuckers, House Wrens, Mountain
Bluebirds and American Robins during summer.
Situated in the Mono Basin, due east of Yosemite National Park,
is world-famous Mono Lake. This area has several worthwhile
birding locations. The Tufa grove on the south shore of the lake
is an excellent place to search for nesting Violet-green
Swallows, Mountain Bluebirds, Say's Phoebes and even Great Horned
Owls. While you are birding the south side of the lake, be sure
to check the adjacent Mono Craters forest for nesting Pinyon Jays
and Williamson's Sapsuckers. In spring, drive the dirt roads and
walk the trails around Mono Lake County Park to check for Common
Snipe, Common Nighthawks, Snowy Plovers and some of the lakes'
50,000 nesting California Gulls. You may also find a few
Wilson's Phalaropes which nest here in small numbers as well. By
mid-summer however, the lake becomes an important migration
staging area for Wilson's and Red-necked Phalaropes and can hold
up to 150,000 birds. Even more impressive are the nearly one
million Eared Grebes that use the lake as a staging area for
their migration by early fall!
Yosemite National Park offers many hotels, tent cabins and a
number of campgrounds that are all very popular, so make your
reservations as early as possible. The grand old world-famous
Ahwahnee Hotel in the Yosemite Valley is highly recommended (209)
252-4848. The number for park information is (209) 372-0200 and
for accommodations call (209) 252-4848. To reach Yosemite, take
Highway 140 out of Merced and continue about 70 miles east. Your
other alternative is to first visit Mono Lake along Highway 395
at the town of Lee Vining, and then follow Highway 120 over Tioga
Pass to reach the east entrance of Yosemite. For information on
visiting Mono Lake, call the California Department of Parks and
Recreation at (619) 647-6331. You should also consider picking
up an excellent resource of birding information for this area;
David Gaines' book entitled Birds of Yosemite and the East Slope.
The San Bernadino Mountains
Only a 90-minute drive from downtown Los Angeles you can find
some of the finest montane birding in all of California. The San
Bernadino Mountains, rising to over 11,500 feet, offer visiting
birders a wonderful opportunity to find bird species that can be
hard to find, especially around the rest of southern California.
Birding here can be interesting any time of year, but during the
summer breeding season, the action really heats up.
As you begin your trip up the mountains, take highway 18 ("Rim of
the World Drive") off Interstate 215, and be sure to check the
brushy chaparral foothills for California Quails, California
Thrashers, Wrentits and California Towhees. Look in the Canyon
Live Oaks for Bushtits, Plain Titmice, Band-tailed Pigeons and
Nuttall's Woodpeckers. As you gain elevation, search the groves
of Alders, Sycamores and Cottonwoods for Swainson's and Hermit
Thrushes, Downey Woodpeckers and Lesser Goldfinches. Around Big
Bear Lake, you may find nesting Redheads, Ruddy Ducks,
Pied-billed and Eared Grebes and Common Nighthawks. In winter,
as many as 25 Bald Eagles have been found, often perched close to
the lakeshore.
Bluff Lake, Baldwin Lake, and the road to Round Valley provide
birders a wide variety of species to search for within the San
Bernadino's. The dirt road to Bluff Lake (closed by snow in
winter) is a little rough, but once you are there, you will
discover it was well worth the trip. In spring and summer, the
meadows and forests around Bluff Lake have an abundance of
nesting birds. Look for Williamson's and Red-breasted
Sapsuckers, White-headed Woodpeckers, Dusky Flycatchers,
Steller's Jays, Mountain Chickadees, Western Tanagers, Pine
Siskins, Cassin's Finches and even Townsend's Solitaires among
the Lodgepole Pines. Check the edges of the mountain meadows for
nesting Lincoln's and Fox Sparrows, Calliope Hummingbirds, Hermit
Thrushes, Dark-eyed Juncos, Western Wood-Pewees and Western
Bluebirds. At night you should listen for owls such as Northern
Saw-whet, Spotted, Northern Pygmy and Flammulated Owls. During
fall migration, you may find Hermit and Townsend's Warblers along
with Golden-crowned Kinglets.
Baldwin Lake, home to the second largest breeding population of
Eared Grebes in southern California, is best for water birds in
the years following a wet winter. During drought years the lake
can be almost completely dry. There are a number of dirt roads
around the lake leading to the shoreline. Be sure to bird the
arid sagebrush that lines the area around the lake. This is a
great place to test your sparrow identification skills during
spring and summer. You may find Savannah, Vesper, Lark, Sage,
Song, Brewer's, Chipping, Black-chinned and Lincoln's Sparrows.
In spring and fall, scope the lake for Wilson's Phalaropes,
Gadwalls, Cinnamon Teals, Mallards, Northern Pintails and
American Wigeons. Also, watch for Mountain Bluebirds and keep an
eye out for Bald Eagles over the lake in winter.
To reach the Round Valley area, pick-up a detailed map of the
area and look for road 2N02 at the south end of Baldwin Lake.
This dirt road winds through some of the best Pinyon-Juniper
habitat in the state. Stop occasionally and listen for Gray
Flycatchers, Green-tailed Towhees and with luck, Gray Vireos.
When you reach Arrastre Creek, check around the willows for
nesting Calliope Hummingbirds, MacGillivray's and Wilson's
Warblers and watch for the occasional Hepatic Tanager. Continue
on through the Joshua Tree forest to Round Valley. Here you
should find Scott's Orioles, Gray Flycatchers, Pinyon Jays,
Black-chinned, Brewer's and Vesper Sparrows, Rock Wrens and Gray
Vireos.
The San Bernadino Mountains can be accessed by taking highway 18
off Interstate 215 and following the road towards Big Bear Lake.
There are plenty of motels and restaurants in the towns of
Running Springs and Big Bear Lake and for information on birding
this area call the U.S. Forest Service at (714) 866-3437.
Southern California Desert
The arid deserts of southeastern California are a stark contrast
from the rest of the state and hold a mix of birds found nowhere
else in California. In this land of sandy washes, barren
landscapes, dry vegetation and little water, the desert oasis act
as a magnet for attracting birds and birders. Most birders
prefer to visit during the cooler months of spring and fall and
at this time of year you can find most of the species special to
this area. To find the resident species, the summer nesters and
the migrants just passing through, you will want to visit Joshua
Tree National Park and The Nature Conservancies' Big Morongo
Canyon Preserve.
When you reach Joshua Tree National Park, be sure to stop at the
headquarters at Twentynine Palms Oasis and pick up a map of the
park. The nature trail to this oasis can be good for
Roadrunners, Gambel's Quails, Verdins and Phainopeplas. On
spring mornings, this is also an excellent place to look for
migrating landbirds. Follow the main road through the park and
remember that almost anyplace you find water you are likely to
find birds. Check the stands of Joshua Trees for desert
specialties like Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, Cactus Wrens,
Black-throated Sparrows and Scott's Orioles. There are a number
of campgrounds, picnic areas and palm oasis' in the park where
birders should search for resident and migrant species. When you
reach Cottonwood Spring, stop and bird the Fremont Cottonwoods
for vireos, warblers, grosbeaks, flycatchers and tanagers during
spring and fall migration. From here, you can hike up to the
beautiful Lost Palms Oasis and look for Black-tailed
Gnatcatchers, Loggerhead Shrikes, Red-tailed Hawks, Cactus and
Rock Wrens, LeConte's and Bendire's Thrashers, Costa's
Hummingbirds and Ash-throated Flycatchers along the trail. When
you reach the oasis, you should find nesting Hooded and Scott's
Orioles, Ladder-backed Woodpeckers and numerous migrants. Also,
the elusive Desert Bighorn Sheep can be found in Joshua Tree
National Park as well.
From the north entrance to Joshua Tree National Park, it is just
a 30-minute drive to one of the finest spring "migrant traps" in
California. Big Morongo Canyon Preserve is a lush oasis of
Fremont Cottonwoods with a permanent stream that has attracted
over 200 species of birds. This is the most reliable place in
the state to find nesting Vermilion Flycatchers, Brown-crested
Flycatchers and Summer Tanagers. Walk the trail through the big
stand of Cottonwoods and listen for, endangered "Least" Bell's
Vireos, Warbling and Solitary Vireos, Virginia Rails, Bullock's
and Hooded Orioles, Western Tanagers, Black-headed Grosbeaks,
Hammond's and Pacific-slope Flycatchers, Wilson's and Yellow
Warblers, the occasional Yellow-billed Cuckoo and many other
western migrants. Check the brushy patches and fields around the
parking lot for Yellow-breasted Chats, Lazuli Buntings, Blue
Grosbeaks, Lawrence's Goldfinches, Gambel's Quail, Black-throated
Sparrows, California Thrashers and Costa's Hummingbirds.
You can reach Big Morongo Canyon Preserve and Joshua Tree
National Park by following highway 62 north off of Interstate 10.
The town of Twentynine Palms is conveniently located between
both areas along highway 62 and has plenty of motels and
restaurants. If you are a little more adventurous, there are
also some marvelous campgrounds in the national park. For
information on Joshua Tree National Park you can call (619)
367-7511 and for Big Morongo Canyon call (619) 363-7190.
The Salton Sea
The Salton Sea, a vast man-made 35-mile long lake in the middle
of the California desert, is unlike any other birding location in
the United States. Created by accident in 1905 when a canal
carrying Colorado River water flooded, the sea and its'
surrounding habitats are now home to an unparalleled amount of
bird-life. Large numbers of Shorebirds, Gulls, Terns, Herons,
Ibis, Cranes, Storks, Geese, Ducks, Grebes, Rails, Pelicans,
pelagic birds, landbirds and a few endangered species call the
Salton Sea home. Birding here can be productive any time of year
for both land and waterbirds but be forewarned, summer at the
Salton Sea is like visiting your local steam bath.
The best way to bird the Salton Sea is to start early (sunrise)
and make many quick stops on an all-day loop trip around the sea.
If you want a more relaxed pace, then spend most of your time
birding the south end, starting at the National Wildlife Refuge
headquarters. In winter, the ponds and fields behind the offices
hold large numbers of White-faced Ibis along with Snow, Ross' and
Canada geese. In summer, take the Seaside Trail just west of the
headquarters to look for Clark's and Western Grebes, Laughing
Gulls, Gull-billed Terns and Black Skimmers. Also be sure to
check around the headquarters picnic area for Abert's Towhees,
Verdins and Cactus Wrens.
Work your way around the edge of the sea on any of the numerous
farm roads, and search the agricultural fields for birds. You
are likely to find big flocks of Cattle Egrets, White-faced Ibis,
Red-winged, Brewers and Yellow-headed Blackbirds and Great-tailed
Grackles as you work your way down to the sea. Make sure you
drive down to the end of Vendel Road to look for Burrowing Owls
beside the road, and to check the ponds at the end for ducks and
shorebirds. In summer, endangered "Yuma" Clapper Rails nest here
along with Least Bitterns, Cinnamon Teals, Redheads and Ruddy
Ducks.
You also want to stop at Red Hill Marina and Obsidian Butte and
check the large ponds in this area. These are good places to
scope the sea and to look for shorebirds, Yellow-footed Gulls and
even Wood Storks in late summer. As strange as it may sound,
when you look out over the sea, keep an eye out for pelagic
birds. Magnificent Frigatebirds, Blue-footed and Brown Boobies,
Laysan Albatross, and a number of different Shearwaters and
Petrels have all been seen at the Salton Sea! If you have
decided to work your way completely around the sea, some of the
places worth checking are: the end of Johnson Street at the
north end, Bombay Beach, Niland Marina, the Wister Unit, Finney
and Ramer Lakes and Salton City.
The Salton Sea can be reached by following highway 86 south off
Interstate 10 or highway 86 north off Interstate 8. Indio,
Niland, Calipatria, Brawley and Salton City are just some of the
small towns around the Salton Sea that can provide restaurants
and accommodations. For more information contact the Salton Sea
State Recreation Headquarters at (619) 393-3052.
The Orange County Coast
The coast of southern California, although highly developed by
the real estate market, still has a number of excellent locations
for birders. With its' beautiful beaches, rocky shorelines,
coastal sage scrub and coastal saltmarsh habitats, it can offer
you some unique terrain for birding. California specialty birds
like Elegant Terns, Allen's Hummingbirds, Black-vented
Shearwaters and endangered California Gnatcatchers can easily be
found in this part of the state.
The Bolsa Chica State Ecological Reserve, located along the
Pacific Coast Highway in Orange County, is one of the best
remaining coastal lagoons in California. It has an outstanding
one and one half mile loop trail around the lagoon, from which
most of the birds here can be found. Be sure to check the trees
on the bluff at the north end for White-tailed Kites, Red-tailed
Hawks, Red-shouldered Hawks, American Kestrels and Peregrine
Falcons. In spring and summer there is a nesting colony of terns
that provides birders with a marvelous chance to study some of
these look-alike species. Elegant, Royal, Forster's, Caspian and
Least Terns along with Black Skimmers can all be found nesting at
Bolsa Chica. The occasional Sooty, Gull-billed, Sandwich or
Black Tern can add excitement to the mix as well. In spring and
fall, you should find both Brown and White Pelicans, Great and
Snowy Egrets, Greater Yellowlegs, Black-necked Stilts, American
Avocets, Willets, Least Sandpipers, Long-billed Dowitchers,
Black-bellied Plovers, Marbled Godwits and resident "Belding's"
Savannah Sparrows. By late fall and winter, you can find Eared,
Horned, Pied-Billed, Western and Clark's Grebes, Common Loons,
Surf Scoters, Red-breasted Mergansers, Lesser Scaup, Buffleheads,
Blue-winged Teals and more. For photographers, there is a wealth
of photo opportunities by just standing on the boardwalk that
overlooks the lagoon from the main parking area. Most of the
waterbirds will eventually make their way past the boardwalk and
many of the terns and shorebirds will fly right overhead.
The other place you don't want to miss is just 5 miles down the
road from Bolsa Chica. The Upper Newport Bay Ecological Reserve,
the largest remaining estuary in southern California, hosts an
impressive variety and number of birds and is a must for any
visiting birder. From Pacific Coast Highway, take Jamboree Road
to Back Bay Drive and follow this one-way road as it skirts the
edge of the reserve. There are a number of pullouts and parking
areas where birders can scan the marshes or just walk the edge of
the road. Upper Newport is famous for its concentration of
endangered "Light-footed" Clapper Rails, Virginia Rails and
Soras. The rails are most often seen at extreme high or low
tides that push them out in the open to feed. When you reach the
intersection of Back Bay Drive and San Joaquin Hills Road, park
and check the freshwater outfall for wintering ducks. Cinnamon,
Green-winged and Blue-winged Teals, Northern Pintails, Northern
Shovelers, Mallards, American Wigeon and the occasional Eurasian
Wigeon are all seen drinking and bathing within 15 feet of the
edge of the road! As you drive through the reserve, be sure to
scan the skies for raptors. Northern Harriers, Sharp-shinned and
Cooper's Hawks, Turkey Vultures, Ospreys, Red-shouldered and
Red-tailed Hawks, American Kestrels, White-tailed Kites,
Peregrine Falcons and Golden Eagles are all possible.
Continue to the next main parking area and stop to check the
coastal sage scrub habitat on the south side of the road adjacent
to a freshwater pond. This is an excellent spot to find Allen's
Hummingbirds and California Gnatcatchers. Listen for the
Gnatcatchers' "mewing" call that is reminiscent of a cat. Other
birds possible in this area are Loggerhead Shrikes, Say's and
Black Phoebes, Anna's Hummingbirds, Bushtits, Bewick's Wrens,
California Towhees and Mourning and Spotted Doves. During spring
and fall migration you could find Nashville, Yellow,
Black-throated Gray, Townsend's, Wilson's and MacGillivray's
Warblers, Olive-sided, Willow, Pacific-slope, Hammond's and
Ash-throated Flycatchers along with Lazuli Buntings, Black-headed
Grosbeaks and Western Tanagers. In summer, you may find
Black-chinned Hummingbirds, Cassin's and Western Kingbirds and
Hooded and Bullock's Orioles. In winter look for Ruby-crowned
Kinglets, Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, Yellow-rumped and
Orange-crowned Warblers, Hermit Thrushes and Lincoln's,
Golden-Crowned, Song, Savannah and White-crowned Sparrows.
To reach coastal Orange County, take the 405 Freeway and exit at
Jamboree Road and continue west to the Pacific Coast Highway.
There are plenty of hotels, motels and restaurants around Orange
County that are close to both Bolsa Chica and Upper Newport. For
information on Bolsa Chica call "Los Amigos de Bolsa Chica" at
(714) 897-7003 and for Upper Newport call the Department of Fish
and Game at (714) 640-6746.
No other state can match California's unique mix and diversity of
habitats. Because of California's deserts, mountains, wetlands,
seacoasts, forests, riparian woodlands, grasslands, alpine
tundra, offshore islands, open ocean, lakes and rivers,
chaparral, coastal sage scrub and more, the state has attracted
over 600 different species. From Allen's Hummingbird to
Xantusıs' Murrelet, and every bird in between, California offers
it's visitors an outstanding variety of birds to find. With a
fine system of parks and preserves, beautiful scenery, excellent
weather and knowledgeable birders, California truly is the
"golden state" for birding.
Additional Information
San Bernadino Mountains:
The San Bernadino Mountains offer a variety of activities at any
time of year. The winter months provide opportunities for a
myriad of winter sports. There are six different alpine skiing
areas (including Snow Summit, Bear Mountain and Snow Forest)
along with areas for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snow
playgrounds and sledding (phone 909-866-5766 for reservations and
information). In summer, Big Bear Lake and Lake Arrowhead offer
boating, fishing, water-skiing, jet skiing, kayaking and
canoeing. You can rent just about anything you need at Big Bear
Marina, Gray's Landing, Holloway's Marina or Pine Knot Landing.
Activities on the lakes usually run from March through November,
depending on the melting of the lakes.
There are numerous opportunities for hiking, horseback riding,
mountain biking, jeep tours, camping and backpacking in the San
Bernadino Mountains. Check with the San Gorgonio District Ranger
Station (909-794-1123) to obtain a wilderness permit for entry
into the backcountry for these activities. One excellent
self-guided nature walk for birders is at the Baldwin Lake
Ecological Reserve. There are lots of waterfowl and up to 25
Bald Eagles here in winter. The trail starts at the visitor
center that is open 10am to 4pm (909-585-0717). Two other good
nature trails are the Ponderosa Vista and Whispering Pines trails
near Barton Flats. Both trails are self-guided and are over easy
terrain. Also of interest is the Big Bear Solar Observatory on
the north shore of the lake (909-866-5791).
There are about 20 forest service campgrounds in the San
Bernadino Mountains that accommodate both tent and trailer
camping. Most of the campgrounds are open from May through
November and reservations can be made for some by calling MISTIX
at (800) 283-2267. Barton Flats, San Gorgonio, South Fork and
Hanna Flat campgrounds are some of the best. For more
information on recreation in the San Bernadino Mountains contact
the Forest Supervisor at (909) 383-5588.
Desert Areas:
Joshua Tree National Park has a number of fine trails you may
want to explore. The Barker Dam Trail, 2 miles east of the
beautiful Hidden Valley Campground, is an easy 3/4 mile walk
ending at a pool of water. This trail takes you through the
"Wonderland of Rocks" and provides a good chance to bird along
the way. The 35-mile long California Riding and Hiking Trail is
a great way to see the park on horseback, foot or mountain bike.
This trail winds through the park and provides excellent viewing
of the park's varied desert scenery. This trail can be accessed
off Joshua Lane near Black Rock Canyon. The Fortynine Palms
Oasis Trail begins off Canyon road four miles west of Twentynine
Palms off highway 62. This moderately strenuous 1 1/2 mile hike
takes you to an oasis where water-loving plants thrive and birds
and animals come to drink at the spring.
Rock climbing is a very popular activity in Joshua Tree National
Park as well. The park offers more than 300 climbs. Some of the
most popular spots are the Wonderland of Rocks, Jumbo Rocks,
Indian Cove and Hidden Valley. For campers, there are 8
campgrounds within the park that offer a variety of amenities.
They all offer RV as well as tent camping spaces and are very
popular in spring and fall. Call MISTIX at (800) 365-2267 for
reservations. Black Rock Canyon, Jumbo Rocks and Indian Cove
campgrounds are the best. You can get additional information at
the Oasis Visitor Center by calling (619) 367-7511.
Orange County Coast:
The best way to see Bolsa Chica State Ecological Reserve is by
following the 1.5 mile loop trail that starts on the boardwalk at
the south parking lot. Follow this walking-only trail around the
east side of the reserve until you reach the tide gate and then
turn back south to complete the loop. This trail will also bring
you close to the bluffs at the north end that are a favorite
place to check for raptors. If you do not want to walk the trail
then just spend your time scanning the mudflats, saltmarsh and
open water around the boardwalk.
The best way to see Upper Newport Bay Ecological Reserve is to
follow Back Bay Drive along the south side of the reserve. This
3-mile road is open to bike, rollerblade, automobile and foot
traffic. It can get very busy on weekends so you may want to try
visiting mid-week. Canoes and kayaks are also available for rent
near the marina at the west end of the reserve. Call
714-640-6746 for more information.
The Salton Sea:
There are five public campgrounds along the east side of Salton
Sea State Recreation Area, and another, operated by Imperial
County, is located just south of the Red Hill Marina. Mecca
Beach, Salt Creek and Bombay Beach campgrounds are three of the
best. On the west side of the sea there are private campgrounds
at Salton City and Desert Shores.
The staff at the Salton Sea State Recreation Area Visitor Center,
located 1 1/2 miles south of North Shore off Highway 111 at State
Park Road, can answer questions and provide information on the
sea and the surrounding area. The center is closed in summer and
you can call them at (619) 393-3052. The Salton Sea National
Wildlife Refuge headquarters is located 6 miles west of highway
111 at Sinclair and Gentry roads (619) 348-5278. There are a
number of trails and roads leading from the refuge headquarters
that will head to wetlands and croplands that are managed for
birds. Designated trails are open all year and most roads within
the refuge are closed to vehicles and are used only as hiking
trails. The Wister Unit of the Imperial Wildlife Area, located 4
1/2 miles northwest of Niland off highway 111 on Davis Road is
well worth exploring. As many as 40,000 ducks and 20,000 geese
use this area in winter and there are over 4200 acres of man-made
ponds and marshlands to search. Phone (619) 359-0577 for more
information.
Brian E. Small
Phone: 310/440-9443
Mobile: 310/849-0306
E-mail: BSmallFoto@aol.com
|
